The charming heritage town of Dalkey seems to be the perfect location for a charming little Parisian bistro. DeVille’s has been a neighbourhood staple since owners Kim and David O’Driscoll opened their doors in 2012. In a post recession South County Dublin suburb, you can expect to find great food, great value and a strong French influence.
The restaurant is warm and welcoming, decked out in deep reds and mahogany wood. You can choose to eat in cosy little booths or perch at a high table in the window and watch the world go by. At weekends I expect it to be busy but as we visited on a wintry Tuesday I was quite surprised to find the dining room at capacity.
After waiting at the bar with a nice glass of cava, we were led to an intimate little booth complete with white tablecloths and low lighting for a relaxed but luxurious atmosphere. Our server Graham was a fountain of knowledge from the menus to the wine list. Ordering was a pleasure and we followed each of his recommendations from the temperature of my steak to a lovely bottle of Chianti which he was happy for us to sample before we made up our indecisive minds.
The French influence jumps off the menu which consists of a range of bistro options, grills and seafood specials. Fresh oysters are a specialty sitting among other dishes like French Onion Soup, Chicken Liver Parfait, Salt Chili Squid, Braised Short Ribs, Slow Roast Pork Belly and a Fillet of Hake.
DeVille’s just happens to be Nicola’s favourite restaurant and she couldn’t resist her usual starter of Sautéed Atlantic Prawns €12. A very generous portion, the large Dublin Bay prawns were spot on, swimming in a dish of garlic and herbs with plenty of bread to mop up the oils and juices.
My Scallops St. Jacques €12 had a nice crispy breadcrumb and a great flavour of roast fennel. It was a pleasantly surprising dish and executed really well.
For the main event in DeVille’s you can’t go wrong with a lovely cut of meat. The 12oz Rib Eye €26 came highly recommended and did not disappoint. The meat was cooked exactly as ordered (medium) and had a gorgeous chargrilled flavour. The accompanying béarnaise was a little cold to be honest but I wasn’t too bothered as the steak was so good without it. It’s hard to impress with chips, they don’t usually feature in a review, but the chips here are to die for, crispy perfection with a lovely and light garlic aioli.
Another carnivore’s dream dish is the Rack of Lamb €26. Also cooked to order, it was nicely pink inside and served with a creamy slice of potato dauphinoise. On the side was a little jug of a beautiful cranberry and mint sauce that would make me order the lamb again in a heartbeat. The quality of the meat and the cooking really showed here and the dish was a lovely complement of flavours.
The food at DeVille’s is rich and comforting so if you have indulged I suggest you pause for a little while before attempting dessert. A must try is the Lemon Tart with Champagne Poached Berry Compote €6.50. The tart is light and fruity with a nice balance between pastry and filling. The accompanying sorbet and compote are tangy and sweet and a lovely way to round off the meal.
We weren’t quite finished though, DeVille’s signature Espresso Martini €9.50 is a perfect aperitif and one of the best to be found outside the city centre. We were also treated to little shots of Red Hen which is a lovely little gesture at the end of your evening.
South County Dublin is becoming increasingly competitive with new restaurants and eateries opening up all the time. DeVille’s is one that is standing the test of time and with food and service this good, it’s not hard to see why. The bill excluding service was €127.50.
A French Taste that is authentic and satisfying.
25 Castle Street
T: 01 284 9071
Alison has been writing since she could hold a pen, which came in handy for her degree in English, Media and Cultural Studies. She has been working in media since graduating and is the latest features writer for TheTaste.
Writing for TheTaste allows her to combine her passion for the written word with her love of food and drink. Find her on Twitter @AliDalyo