If you ask most people, taxi drivers included, where Stephens Lane is you can often be met with a blank stare. Tucked away in a hidden enclave behind Dublin’s Mount Street you will find one of the city’s longest running restaurants. Writing this review it is hard to believe Dobbins Restaurant is in business over 30 years, those interim years have seen the restaurant undergo many updates and extensions. What you will find there today is a beautiful space with more intimate seating to the front which houses their legendary leather booths and an airy bright space to the rear ideal for larger groups.
We decided to pop in for lunch, Dobbins offer an excellent set menu of 3 courses for €24.95 and being surrounded by offices the staff are well prepped to have you fed and watered within the hour. From Castletownbere Crab to the Ham Hock Terrine there’s a varied selection of around eight starters, which for a set menu is excellent by any standards.
We opted for the Crispy Duck Salad topped with tiny chunks of fragrant mango and juicy pomegranate and surrounded with four plump pieces of duck. The Goats Cheese and Gazpacho Jelly was a nice little take on an old recipe. A deliciously ripe tomato filled with creamy goats cheese accompanied by sweet candied walnuts and pickled beets with tiny droplets of Gaspacho Jelly.
Braised beef is one of those dishes that always sounds appealing but can often be a real let down, thankfully Dobbin’s have one of the most succulent Braised Fetterblade’s of Beef in town. A mini mountain of velvety champ and seasoned carrot housed a silky cut of beef drizzled in a rich red wine jus.
As a bacon addict, the Roast Atlantic Hake jumped straight out from the menu. A generous, fluffy fillet arrived with crispy bacon, cubed potato and miniscule baby capers. The bouillabaisse sauce was flavoursome and blended to perfection.
After those two generous mains, dessert was not an option, but one we look forward to on our next visit. Dobbins may be on the scene for over 25 years but is still a gem yet to be discovered by many.
Our bill came to €64.07 including two divine glasses of Boarte Rioja 2012.
This is a Enduring Taste that we highly recommend.
15 Stephens Lane
T: 01 661 9536
Keith & Jules Mahon are the founders of TheTaste. We want TheTaste to be a culinary kaleidoscope to champion every taste, food, wine, cocktails, whiskey, etc. We are delighted to be part of such a creative and fast moving industry and are very passionate about sharing with you our unique journey around Ireland finding the best culinary hotspots.